AITUTAKI, COOK ISLANDS

AITUTAKI
ESCAPE TO PARADISE

Aitutaki is one of the 15 islands in the Cook Islands group. Well, it really is a shining pearl of Cook Islands. It is much more than just a tropical island with its fragrant and colorful flowers, sandy beaches, swaying palms and crystal clear and warm waters. Aitutaki, meaning ‘to keep the fire going’, gives her name to a lagoon of all shades of turquoise and azure waters and islets and reefs surrounding the lagoon. 

Aitutaki has a rich history starting with first Polynesian settlers arriving in canoes, then Captain Bligh sighting the atoll in 1789 on board of ‘Bounty’ to be followed in 1821 by the first missionaries bringing Christianity to the local population. Charles Darwin visited in 1835 on board of ‘Beagle’ and 1850s brought whaling ships. Aitutaki was first to receive an airstrip built by Americans in 1942. It was the longest runway in the Cook Islands till 1974 when the airport in Rarotonga was completed. 

TEAL - Tasman Empire Airways Limited – has used, picture pretty from the air Aitutaki, as a fueling stop on its ‘Coral Route’ for refueling their flying boats in the 1950s. Some passengers had to spend a night on Akaiami motu, where the flying boats landed, when the weather prevented the flying boats from further travel to Tahiti. The stranded passengers were well looked after. Canoes brought supplies so that the passengers could experience a culinary feast and entertainment from local dancers and musicians. The stranded passengers were delighted to have the unexpected extended stay in the most magical transit point on route. 

TEAL carried Queen Elizabeth in 1954, Graham Greene, Cary Grant, Gary Cooper, and John Wayne to name a few famous names. When a flying boat once had to return to Tahiti for engine repairs and left some 40 passengers for a number of days on Akaiami motu they simply did not want to carry on their journey when the flying boat returned with the engine fixed. Today, TEAL services have been replaced by regular flights on Air Rarotonga and Aitutaki is the next after Rarotonga, most visited island in the group. Air Rarotonga airfares from Rarotonga are not cheap but some special fares of $109.00 each way can be found in the off peak time. Outside of the off peak specials it is a double of that price each way. In spite of the expense a trip to Aitutaki is a rewarding experience.

It is possible to walk around the island and hike up to a 120 meters tall Maungapu for a 360 view. Maungapu, according to the legend, has been cut from the top of Raemaru Mountain on Rarotonga and brought to Aitutaki in canoes. It is the only hill here so it is effortless to bike around the island. A stop in Arutanga is a must; it is the town and harbour of Aitutaki. However, the lagoon boat tours depart from O’out Beach. And the lagoon and its motu are the main attraction of Aitutaki. 

A Lagoon tour is an absolute must. The color of the water changes with depth and sunlight angle from turquoise to deep blue and the underwater life is spectacular. There are reefs, colorful fish and giant clams. The underwater visibility is crystal clear. In fact, one of the diving sites of the outer reef is called ‘Paradise’. But it is not only marine environment that can be described as paradise. Aitutaki has the most relaxing atmosphere. A lagoon tour is about discovering the amazing beauty of nature spiced up by lunch of fish, salads and fruit and a tune of ukulele and guitars.

There is a great range of accommodation on Aitutaki. Nature disregards the expanse involved and gives the same amazing performance of heavenly beauty to those that pay $1000.00 per night or $100.00 per night. It is also possible to visit Aitutaki on a Day Tour including Air Rarotonga airfare, island sightseeing bus tour and a boat tour of the lagoon on board of the Polynesian Titi-ai-Tonga catamaran. Those that choose the day tour promise to return to paradise. Those that spend some time on Aitutaki whish they could stay longer. Aitutaki has been charming its visitors for centuries and has been described as ‘Paradise on Earth’ in its legends, in the reports of the greatest air journeys of ‘Coral Route’ and by contemporary visitors.

ANGKOR WAT A WONDER OF THE ANCIENT WORLD

“I need to pick you up at 5 am! It will be still dark,” said Billy, my tuk tuk driver. OK, so there is no sleeping in this holiday. I only just got back from the sunset at Phnom Bakheng. The trick is to get to Angkor Wat entrance by 4.30pm and queue up to get a day pass for the next day. That entitles you to sunset entry at no extra cost. Phnom Bakheng is a fair walk up the hill followed by a steep climb to the top of the well-preserved ruins. In fact, the steps are original 11th century, worn out and narrow. Only in some places the steps were replaced with much easier to climb a modern, wooden version.

Billy was right to his word. We were on the way to Angkor Wat at 5 am, still dark but the traffic building up towards the ancient site. Few other visitors had the same idea. Most people congregate by the Sacred Lake to take the reflection photos; thus it is good to explore the eastern part of the site in virtual seclusion. The real crowd enters after breakfast, time to move on to Angkor Thom.

Billy has stopped at the breakfast café with the view of The Elephant Terraces at Bayon, which we entered through the South Gate. The walk through Bayon is best attempted early, before the heat of the day kicks in.
       
Angkor Wat and Bayon are the most visited sites and can get crowded at times, even in the monsoon, off pick season. However, it is possible to experience further away sites on your own as well as enjoy the ride through the local villages and countryside.
Banteay Samre and Banteay Srey are some 15km away along a rural road with local people tending to the rice fields. “We have to stop at Ta Prohm”, said Billy. Ta Prohm has been overgrown by jungle, now parts of it cleared with tree roots winding through the ancient stones.

There are many ways to explore the ancient complexes. There are air-conditioned buses bringing some 40 people at a time to a complex or it can be done by bicycle, but that requires time and a 3-day pass would be necessary. I found that a tuk tuk trip was an excellent option and the local knowledge that Billy offered was very helpful. Speaking good English, Billy is not only a tuk tuk driver but also a guide.

MAGNIFICENT MAURITIUS

The first glimpse of magnificent Mauritius is available from the air, as Air Mauritius lands just after sunrise. And what a view it is! Enough to tantalize the curiosity for more spectacular views and inquisitiveness as to what else the island has to offer. Here goes a plan for a relaxing, on the beach holiday and an adventure packed exploration of the island begins.
Luxury coaches are awaiting arriving passengers at the airport to whisk them to their hotels by the most direct route. I decided to take a slow road (or so I thought before I experienced the local bus driving technique) and do some sightseeing on the way. Travelling on a local bus allows for a discovery of villages and towns on route and meeting the locals. If you speak French, that is. English is the official language of Mauritius but everybody speaks French and Creole. Only some of the local population speaks English.
“We are in 16 eme Mille,” said Mina. Mina was sitting next to me on a local bus. She was on her way to work in Curepipe and working in retail she spoke English. 16th Mile is a little town we have just passed. By 8 am I have also already visited Rose Belle and Nouvelle France on my way from Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam airport to Port Louis.
Local bus ride is quite an experience. There is no place for amusement parks with scary rides on Mauritius. They would not do well at all. Anybody wanting to encounter a scary ride, near death collision, adrenaline pumped to its limits only needs to hop on a local bus and hold on tight. The driving speed on narrow roads is unlimited, overtaking or passing within an inch of a car or another bus quite common. It is easy to get used to this way of driving though. I found it an exciting and enjoyable part of my sightseeing. I visited most of Mauritius traveling on a local bus.

The diversity of landscapes is astonishing. Mauritius is not just a beach destination. Surely the ocean, its golden beaches, islands scattered off the shores of Mauritius play a major role. Sailing, diving, snorkeling and water sports are the definite part of the holiday. However, Mauritius offers also some unique scenery of natural wonders. Chamarel is a small village and a definite highlight of the visit with Seven Colors Earth on its footstep. The Seven Colors Earth is an unbelievable collection of colors - from pink, red, purple to gold, orange & brown depending on the iron content of the volcanic eruptions and different temperatures the lava was cooling at. The Chamarel Waterfall springing from lush green jungle is an invigorating scene.



Irrespective of the entire natural wonders and dramatic scenery the ocean and its beaches are a major part of enjoyment. Flic en Flack is on route from Chamarel to Port Louis. It has an amazing sandy beach to swim of, crystal clear water and is the spot to enjoy a spectacular sun set from.Mauritius has many natural treasures but the best treasure it can be proud of is its people. They are friendly, helpful and always smiling. “This is ourite,” said Mme Lise serving a delicious octopus dish, a Creole delicacy. Mme Lise is an expert on Creole cuisine. We were having a picnic on Ile aux Cerfes accompanied by Sega singing and dancing.

Mauritius leaves a memory of constant happiness. The sunrises and sunsets are spectacular. The nature, scenery and people enchanted me.
Many call Mauritius A Paradise Island and they are not wrong.