ANGKOR WAT A WONDER OF THE ANCIENT WORLD

“I need to pick you up at 5 am! It will be still dark,” said Billy, my tuk tuk driver. OK, so there is no sleeping in this holiday. I only just got back from the sunset at Phnom Bakheng. The trick is to get to Angkor Wat entrance by 4.30pm and queue up to get a day pass for the next day. That entitles you to sunset entry at no extra cost. Phnom Bakheng is a fair walk up the hill followed by a steep climb to the top of the well-preserved ruins. In fact, the steps are original 11th century, worn out and narrow. Only in some places the steps were replaced with much easier to climb a modern, wooden version.

Billy was right to his word. We were on the way to Angkor Wat at 5 am, still dark but the traffic building up towards the ancient site. Few other visitors had the same idea. Most people congregate by the Sacred Lake to take the reflection photos; thus it is good to explore the eastern part of the site in virtual seclusion. The real crowd enters after breakfast, time to move on to Angkor Thom.

Billy has stopped at the breakfast café with the view of The Elephant Terraces at Bayon, which we entered through the South Gate. The walk through Bayon is best attempted early, before the heat of the day kicks in.
       
Angkor Wat and Bayon are the most visited sites and can get crowded at times, even in the monsoon, off pick season. However, it is possible to experience further away sites on your own as well as enjoy the ride through the local villages and countryside.
Banteay Samre and Banteay Srey are some 15km away along a rural road with local people tending to the rice fields. “We have to stop at Ta Prohm”, said Billy. Ta Prohm has been overgrown by jungle, now parts of it cleared with tree roots winding through the ancient stones.

There are many ways to explore the ancient complexes. There are air-conditioned buses bringing some 40 people at a time to a complex or it can be done by bicycle, but that requires time and a 3-day pass would be necessary. I found that a tuk tuk trip was an excellent option and the local knowledge that Billy offered was very helpful. Speaking good English, Billy is not only a tuk tuk driver but also a guide.